Do you want to install air conditioning in the center of your home? Read this guide to learn more about central air conditioning, from installation costs to choosing the right unit.
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- Air Conditioning Installation
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- On” Vs “auto”: Which Hvac Blower Setting Is Best?
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Whether the summers are getting warmer or we have lost our tolerance for heat as we age, many of us have been tempted to ditch noisy, leaky windows and replace them with a quiet, efficient central ventilation system throughout the home. .
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But we no longer accept this idea. Those of you who have air conditioning systems are concerned that replacing the heating system will be costly and inefficient. And if you don’t have plumbing, you can’t imagine how you will add it without destroying the house and carrying the package. But adding air conditioning is easier and cheaper than you might think.
With the addition of a standard air conditioning system, air conditioning for an average 2,000-square-foot home costs $3,500 to $4,000,000 and can be done by two technicians in two or three days, often with little or no change.
For a house that requires plumbing, the cost and time to do it doubles. But an experienced retrofit contractor can skillfully hide pipes behind walls, behind cupboards and in attics with a few cuts in the walls and ceiling and a bit of clutter.
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The first task – and perhaps the most important decision when installing a central air conditioner in your home – is choosing the right equipment.
All refrigeration contractors should begin their home assessment by performing an American Standard Manual J heat meter calculation. It determines your home’s heat gain. The calculation is easy to do and will tell you the size of the unit you need. Switch to another contractor if a potential client wants to explore the right part of your home just for the experience. While this depends largely on where you live, many factors go into the size required, including the size of the wall and the loft space you have; type and arrangement of windows and doors; and the orientation of the house relative to the sun. Calculations can also inform you about the possible benefits of improving insulation in your home. By making your home more efficient, you can reduce the amount of air conditioning you need.
Take these steps to determine how much air conditioning is needed for the size of your home.
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Using the heat gain calculator, the contractor will recommend an air conditioner size in tonnage or Btu per hour (Btu/h). One ton is 12,000,000 Btu per hour. Why is choosing the right size important?
A non-condensing unit will not be able to cool rooms on a hot day and will cost more to run because it will have to run longer than a larger unit. A supercharged compressor is also more demanding to operate as it requires more electricity to operate a larger unit. Excess layer does not reduce moisture well. This is because it cools the air so quickly that it shuts down before it has time to pass enough air through the coil to remove the necessary moisture. The result is a room that doesn’t feel as warm as the temperature indicates. In fact, the room may feel stuffy and damp.
Once the size of the unit has been determined, the contractor should discuss with you the performance as indicated by the Seasonal Energy Rating (SEER). SEER measures the number of Btu the air conditioner will shut down for each watt of electricity used. The higher the SEER, the more expensive to run.
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Government regulations require new air conditioners to have a SEER of at least 13. These units have lower running costs, are typically more efficient, have greater safety, better sound insulation and lower voltage requirements. In general, the higher the SEER, the higher the original price per unit.
Next, you need to choose the type of system to buy. There are two types. The “package program” combines air conditioners, refrigerators and hot air conditioners, with fan coil units, air conditioners and air conditioners. The device connects the network. Usually it is a large refrigerator with a pipe. But the packing system is rare.
In a “split system”, the condenser is outside the house and the fan and fan coil system is inside; they are connected between the refrigerant pipes. If you have a forced air furnace, the refrigerant lines connected to the cooling system are installed in the air duct.
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In some cases, it works best in an existing plenum. If this is not possible due to space constraints, the contractor will create a separate page. If you don’t have forced air, a fan coil unit is usually installed in the attic where it will supply fresh air through ducts. The 20 to 30 foot pipes carry the refrigerant as an outlet.
Even the quietest air conditioner makes noise, so work with your contractor to find a location that is not near a bedroom or office window. Do not place the condenser below horizontal or completely surround it as this will blow hot air above it. Any aviation restrictions will limit the capacity of the facility. However, you can hide the condenser in a landscaped area, as long as air can circulate around it.
Most air conditioners are split systems: the condenser is outside and the fan and fan coil array is inside, connected to the condenser by ducts that run outside the house. Pipes can be masked as part of a top-down system. Channel service rooms on the second floor through a dedicated library. Pipes run through a closet leading to the first room.
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You should check your network. Many times changes are required to produce a greater volume of air generated by heat. Surprisingly, older systems, which tend to be larger, perform better when it comes to converting central air. .
Since in most ventilation systems the fan-convector unit is installed in the attic, the challenge is to find the ducts and route them back to the top of the first and second rooms.
The ducts supplying the rooms on the second floor are usually routed above the attic and through the middle of the floor, where they connect to the register. The pipes supplying the first rooms are routed where possible through closets on the second floor.
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The first step your contractor will take to determine where the plumbing is located is to map the second floor and lay it on the first floor. Frank Scarangello of Staten Island, New York, who owns Scaran Heating and Air Conditioning, says, “99 percent of the time, homes on the second floor give access to the inventory on the first floor.”
Plumbing in the closet takes up less space than you might think. Since most pipes are 12 x 6 inches or 10 x 8 inches, even in a small cabinet compared to 2 x 4 meters, they only take 4 out of 64 of them. Some air conditioning contractors may recommend using “flex ducts” (smaller, less expensive flexible hoses) instead of square ducts. But avoid the flexible tube in the locked position – it is less wear-resistant and easier to clamp.
What kind of mess can you expect if you need to install plumbing? In most cases, the surface of the walls and ceiling remains largely intact. For installation, openings will need to be cut on the first and second floors, and second floor slabs will be cut to fit the new pipes. But these holes are small, and it’s easy to mess up inside.
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Even if you don’t have ductwork in your home, if cooling will make your home more comfortable during the summer months, call your HVAC contractor to find out how much it would cost to add air conditioning and how they would use it. The right selection of furniture and accessories will give you years of comfort, and often they are not as cheap and affordable as you might think.
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Whether it’s a refrigerator, stove, air conditioner, or all three, replacing your home HVAC system is a big investment, so the choice is yours.
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